AT Happiness: Hemlock Hollow

AT Happiness: Hemlock Hollow

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Yesterday we had planed to do a 15 mile day. We did the first 4 miles and stopped at Mom’s Store, a trail oasis 100 feet off of the trail.  Coming rain, a positive review about Hemlock Hellow Hostel and a banged up hiking companion led us off the trail.

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We booked in for two nights with plans for a 20 mile slack pack the next day.  Bad weather forecasts, flood warnings, a friend’s bad knee and a free ride offer has us yellow blazing to Erwin, TN.

Miss Hattie

Miss Hattie

Hostel Guard Dog, warning he may lick you to death

Hostel Guard Dog, warning he may lick you to death

This change of plans left us on the porch at Hemlock Hollow enjoying the day. A day that started with Miss Hattie’s biscuits and gravy the best I’ve had since starting the Appalachian Trail.

The crew enjoying the day

The crew enjoying the day

A really nice suprise of a day, a happy day and as my hiking companion Jedi says every day in camp, this does not suck. – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: Hot Springs

AT Happiness: Hot Springs

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Hot Springs is one of those trail towns you look forward to getting to.  It’s the first town where the trail goes down Main Street.  We stayed at the Laughing Heart Hostel with our lovely host Tie.

Lovely Tie at Laughing Heart Hostel

Lovely Tie at Laughing Heart Hostel

It’s a hiker/tourist town and it has everything a hiker needs.  Multiple hostels, an outfitter, good restaurants and people seem truly happy to have us in town. I also have to give a shout out to the Spring Creek Tavern, best food in town and some of the best chicken wings I’ve had in a long time. But warning, do the mild!

AT markers on Main Street in Hot Springs

AT markers on Main Street in Hot Springs

Hot Springs also has the Hiker’s Ridge Ministry a really great spot to hang out and find what you need. Queen Diva and the crew are a hiker’s best friend.

Queen Diva at the Hiker's Ridge Ministry.

Queen Diva at the Hiker’s Ridge Ministry.

Hot Springs is an idyllic little spot, a vortex that can suck you in and keep you there. For our group it was also a place of drama where a lot of things went wrong and we were happy to leave it behind.

Soaking in the springs was a must do at the spa and during the day was only $15 for a really wonderful hour.  I’m glad I spent some time there and had a couple of happy days my friend.  – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: Standing Bear Farm

AT Happiness: Standing Bear Farm

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Lumpy on the left with the AARP gang

 

The Smoky Mountains are a huge figure in the mind of a thru-hiker for a lot of reasons. They contain the highest point on the AT, the weather is unpredictable in the spring and the park has a variety of additional regulations to adhere to while hiking there.

Lumpy's predecessor at Standing Bear, Rocket Man

Lumpy’s predecessor at Standing Bear, Rocket Man

So for some completing the Smokies is an achievement, for some it’s a relief.  For a lot of us, what signifies the end of the Smokies is arriving at Standing Bear Farm.

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The laundry tub, yes this is how you do wash there.

 

A unique hostel with a variety of sleeping options including a tree house.  Standing Bear is a place both full of character and full of characters.

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I liked my night there, our group bought the camp store out of pasta and sauce and made a group dinner.  Shaggy Hobo and Backtrack cooked and we had a really wonderful night there.  It was also the night I was rejoining my group after my Knoxville excursion.

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Lumpy has recently taken over for Rocket at the farm and he was a gracious host and his nickel tour is not to be missed. Definitely one of the unique places on the trail, and someplace that provided a very happy day my friends.  – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: My Dog Friends

AT Happiness: My Dog Friends

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Those of you who know me well know that I’m not always comfortable around other people’s dogs.  Many people don’t have control over their animals and usually when a dog becomes aggressive it’s proceeded by the words, “he won’t bother you.”

I understand people’s strong emotions around their pets and frankly I was leary about the idea of thru-hiking dogs.  Dogs are not allowed on parts of the trail like the Smokies.  I am still not convinced it’s a good idea and there have been some negatives.  A very large black dog made an aggressive move at me, two others have growled at me and others.

However, the majority have been well behaved, friendly, and well controlled.  My biggest surprise has been my comfort around a large doberman hiking the trail.

Even more so a few dogs have become my friends on the trail and we’re happy to see each other when we meet.  Early on I met a sweet Portuguese water dog and two miniature Italian Greyhounds, all who are now unfortunately off the trail.

But here are a few of my dog friends from the trail.

Bella looks mean as hell in this pic but is a super mellow dog particularly fond of having her ears scratched.

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Lila is a super playful pup who has worn out many a hiker playing fetch, she’s absolutely tireless.

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Ginger is my favorite, like Lila she’s a rescue, she doesn’t like other dogs and is fiercely loyal and protective of her owner, Dewdog.  They have a really amazing bond. She’s super mellow when you first meet her but quickly turns into an 80 pound lap dog once you become friends.

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Our fellow dog hikers have certainly given us some happy days my friends – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: A Trail Vacation

AT Happiness: A Trail Vacation

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One of the things I had to battle with in starting this hike was which part of my nature would win out.  Part of me desired to plan my daily mileage and finish date in advance.  To push the miles, stay on schedule and complete the task at hand.

The other side of me desired to not so much complete hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT) as to experience hiking the AT.  By this I mean allowing myself to extend a zero day, chase a side adventure or do whatever hits me that might enhance the experience.

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The first thought would be a more purist form of the hike.  When I was younger that would have appealed to me, the order, organization and accomplishment of that type of hike.

But I’m older now, more relaxed more about journeys than destinations.   It’s why I was ok with my blue blaze around Albert Mt. and skipping two miles to stay with my group coming out of Franklin.

Likewise going into the Smokies, (I have a hate and love affair with TN), I was both excited by the mountains and not happy about the regulations.  In the Smokies you’re required to stay at the shelters or risk a fine.  If the shelter is not full you’re supposed to sleep in them as well.  I’ve written before about my disdain for sleeping on the ground.   It’s the reason I use a hammock.

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

So I was not excited about going into the Smokies but the first three nights turned out great.  We went into Gatlinburg for resupply and a zero day and only after passing on two free rides to Knoxville did I check the weather.  The forecast sucked, 50 mile an hour wind gusts, low temps and that meant sleeping in the shelters.

So, given the conditions, my feelings about the Smokies and my need for a little solitude, I headed for Knoxville.  One thing that might surprise folks is the solitude statement.  On the trail you are rarely alone particularly when you’re forced to stay at the shelters.  I’d also been hiking in a group, which is by far not the norm for me.  So as a bit of a loner, it was time for me to take a break.

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

So I’m yellow blazing (catching a ride) and skipping thirty miles of the Smokies.  I’ll catch up with some hiking friends at Standing Bear Farm at Davenport Gap. The journey and more happy days will proceed from there. – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: The Hardest Day So Far

AT Happiness: The Hardest Day So Far

On Rocky Top

On Rocky Top

On the Appalachian Trail many of us use guides instead of maps.  The majority of us use The AT Guide by David Miller.  One of the features I love in the guide are the profiles.   Profiles aren’t topographic renderings in other words, not exact representations of the trail.   However, they give you a good idea what you are in store for, how difficult the day will be.  They are not perfect!

This point was driven home several days ago.  We set out to do a little over 12 miles in the Smokies to get to Siler’s Bald Shelter. The day started by climbing Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountain.  Damn Yankee had given me a heads up about the difficulty of the first climb.  It was tough but the views were spectacular.

The rest of the day seemed to be a standard hard day in the Smokies according to the profile.  But it wasn’t, the early climbs had taken too much time and we needed to push.  This was expected but the hills were far more gnarly than expected. We had to push, the push took a lot more out of us than we anticipated.

We chaffed when a hiker going the other way misinformed us about both the distance to the shelter and the slope.  To top it all off the shelter looked to be on the base of the last climb, it was nearer the top.  A reality of the way the profiles represent things.

The cherries on top included several of us running low on food, not finding a midpoint water source and finally half of us arriving in a rain and hail storm burst.

People were stretched and stressed, we were worn out and all of our various injuries were screaming at us.  For me, the weather also signaled a miserable, sleepless night in the shelter.  But the trail provides!

While blowing up my Thermarest a kid named Chris, doing a short 3 day hike inquired about my pad.  He didn’t like his large, super thick pad and offered to trade for the night, I almost kissed him.  So instead of a sleepless night, I had my best night ever in a shelter.  The trail provides!

My air mattress savior

My air mattress savior

Never give up on a day my friends, even at the last minute you could have a happy day.- Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: Quitting the Appalachian Trail

AT Happiness: Quitting the Appalachian Trail

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I’ve been on the Appalachian Trail almost a month now.  All of the past statistics and anectodal information say that a lot of people have quit. Typically thirty percent drop before Neels Gap around mile thirty.  Some, I met two, quit on the approach trail prior to mile zero.

Once you’re out here you realize some things quickly, it’s amazing out here and doing the AT is really hard.

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People quit for a lot of reasons, a lot due to a lack of physical and/or mental preparation.  Coming to this unprepared is a recipe for pain and disaster.

Some quit because they have too, injury, illness, life’s responsibilities all can end a thru-hike.  Some decide that they like the idea of being a thru-hiker but don’t enjoy thru-hiking and no one should do something this hard if they don’t enjoy it.

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

I’ve been out on the trail for long enough now to see a number of people I knew and liked quit.  The decision is agony.

First, you feel like you have failed. This idea is ridiculous, by even attempting a thru-hike you have been more adventurous than 90% of the people you know.  Starting this means you took a risk, many of us have quit jobs, sold houses, etc… These are not small things and alone, these actions change your life.

The AARP  gang, me, Backtrack, Kingfisher and Awesome

The AARP gang, me, Backtrack, Kingfisher and Awesome

Second, you feel like you have let people down.  We have all told everyone we’re doing this, many of have social media followings.  So when you quit, you feel like you have let them all down.  Inevitably, some jerk is going to beat you up verbally for quitting and not completing the hike to Maine.  My reply to them, if you did more miles on the AT you have some right to your opinion.   If you haven’t you need to shut the hell up.

Finally, quitting brings up the inevitable question of what now?  You’ve changed your life and planned for six months on the trail.  Often to use the time to work out what’s next.  Suddenly that decision seems very, very immediate.

I hope this helps people understand this a bit.  Some of the folks I know who have left the trail are really struggling with the decision they needed to make for themselves.   I have immense respect for anyone who attempts, no matter how many steps they take on the trail.   It is about the process, the journey and the transformative nature of the experience, not the number of miles completed.

We should celebrate and support these magnificent risk takers for what they attempted and accomplished, not make them feel bad for what you think they should have done.

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

So be kind, supportive and empathetic so we can all have happy days my friends. – Rev Kane

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AT Happiness: This Can Be Dangerous

AT Happiness: This Can Be Dangerous

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The first thing to note is that thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail is really quite safe.  Few people ever die and there is very little crime.  In my opinion the major reason for this is two-fold.

First, most thru-hikers are very prepared, we have spent months researching and practicing how to do this.

Second, as I talked about in my last post, we watch out and take care of each other.  We learn from each other how to stay safe.

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There are real risks and everyone thinks first about bears.  Bear attacks are really rare and we take a lot of precautions to hang our food and minimize contact. We also take the risk very seriously.

Snakes and other critters are out here and again the risk is minimal and we pay attention.  The real critter risk is from the tiny ones mosquitos and ticks.  Far more people lose there hike to Lyme Disease than any other critter related reason.

The real risks out here are turning an ankle or a knee, or falling and breaking a bone. Hundreds of times a day we jump a rock, walk slippery surfaces, or put faith in a hand, stick or foothold that if it failed, could end our hike.

Thunderstorms are terrifying when you’re in a hammock or tent on top of a mountain and widow makers have already killed a hiker this year. Again we’re careful about where we camp.

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So this is hard, it can be dangerous, but it’s also one of the most amazing things you could ever do.  Have a happy day my friends – Rev Kane

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AT HAPPINESS: This Is Becoming Normal

AT HAPPINESS: This Is Becoming Normal

20150323_200208One of the things that I talked about earlier was the stages I expected to go through on the trail. Initially I was a hopeful thru-hiker. I expected that stage to last for a very long time.  Next I expected to become a novice thru-hiker as a sense of normality set in on the trail.

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Amazingly that sense of normality has already started to set in after only 160 plus miles.  Getting up at sunrise (I’m not a morning person) breaking camp, packing up and walking for up to 9 hours a day, setting camp, cooking, hanging a bear bag is just what I do now.

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Big ass mountains are quickly becoming just another hill. Not downplaying how hard this is, walking up and down mountains all day, every day is incredibly hard.  It’s exhausting, your body hurts all of the time, Advil are referred to as trail candy.  Coming out of the NOC we walked uphill for 6 hours and gained nearly 4000 feet in elevation.  We averaged 1.2 miles per hour.

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Somehow all of this is becoming normal. I’m still learning how to do this, lessons are constant and important. Every single person on the trail is a potential teacher.  A LOT of people have quit already, I’ll say it again, this is hard.  Things happen you can’t control, we have all fallen, we are all banged up and losing weight.  But the important thing about normal is that it is normal, it happens every day, again and again.  Only 2120 some miles to go and a lot more happy days my friends.  – Rev Kane

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Happy News – March 22, 2015

Happy News – March 22, 2015

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By the miracle of technology I’m able to share a bit of happy news while I’m out hiking thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail, enjoy my friends and have a happy day ~ Rev Kane

A touching thing this 10 year-old girl does each Valentine’s Day

109 Year-old man knits tiny sweaters to save penguins

You won’t believe what Taylor Swift did

Man walks 21  miles round-trip to work, people show their kindness

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