Oviedo – Part 1

Oviedo – Part 1

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Welcome to Oviedo! Look who was waiting for me.  Apparently since he used Oviedo as a fill-in for his Barcelona film, they built him a statue.

Beautiful train ride once the sun came up.

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Rolling through the southern Pyrenees was beautiful. Started out thoroughly confused in Oviedo.  The train station was on the street I thought, just about 5 blocks away. So it took about 15 minutes to get oriented.

My first impressions of Oviedo are that it’s compact and clean, except wow, everyone smokes in Spain.  People seem nice, not that I’m interacting a whole lot.  There is a ton of art here and even some shows in English.

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Below I’ll include some shots of the street art and some from San Francisco Park, the big park in the center of town.

On the way to Hotel Vetusta I got a little worried about my accommodation, I don’t think I need to translate that, I mean my birthday is tomorrow but I’m not that old.

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Happily this was mine.

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Had a nice lunch at a cafe on the park and now off to checkin and wander a bit. – Rev Kane

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Day 5 Great Glen Way – Drumnodrochit to Inverness (bizarro world)

Day 5 Great Glen Way – Drumnodrochit to Inverness (bizarro world)

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You can read my last post about most of my last day hike on the Great Glen Way for the straight story.  What follows is a somewhat embellished, somewhat fanciful and somewhat true story of getting lost on a mountain in Scotland. Please be aware this post contains adult language.

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The last fucking mountain in Scotland and descending as well. That’s where I get lost. I came to the gate and the beware of work vehicles sign just as the forestry truck pulled up, and, unknown to me carefully blocking the trail diversion sign. I ambled down the trail only to find safety cones, crime tape and dire warnings of impending doom should I proceed, so of course I stopped and had a debate with myself about whether or not to ignore the warnings and proceed. I remembered there was a woman shortly behind me on the trail.

The plan became to wait for the gate sound and see if she came the the same way. The gate creaked, when no one appeared a couple minutes later I decided to backtrack and take the turn I’d bypassed. When I did I promptly found her wondering in circles looking dazed and confused. Not a good sign, we had found one sign but it was laying in the grass with arrows going in two directions, this would become our normal the rest of the day.

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We decided to walk uphill,  something counter intuitive to every instinct I had 16 miles into a hike with a heel blister the size Edinburgh developing on my heel.  But you know, she had GPS.  It yielded some minor success on the top of the hill as we found four college students from Prague wondering dazed and confused, checking their GPS. This of course initiated the thing that is most likely to get you killed on a hiking trip, the GPS confab.

They compared their maps amd paths, I’m sure there were mentions of things like waypoints and declinations or some other such nonsense. We could see the city. I suggested we just go downhill and catch a fucking cab. After five minutes with absolutely no resolution we decided to generally go left, thank god for GPS.

This meant uphill and over and I decided to stick with it the Aussie I’d found they’re generally nice people, and as a result of walking while still debating her own GPS we promptly lost any trace of the students from Prague. We reached the top of the hill and after consulting the GPS, went left.  This connected to a road that went downhill, I was all about a downhill road and started down while my friend continued to comment how according to her GPS this direction lead to falling off the earth. Fine, at least I would be done walking.

We continued down and she remarked regularly we were doomed but I was walking downhill so all was right with my world. Eventually  we saw a man and a small dog bounding through the bushes.  Upon seeing me the viscious beast ran straight for me, taking up a powerful stance just in front of me obviously prepared to defend its master’s honor.  The terror was immediately ramped up by hearing the killer’s name, “come here Honey.”

We negotiated with the beast and its owner, who promptly set off to lead us “back to the trail,” and of course he added it’s “just past my house.” Code, as all hikers know, for welcome to the real life version of the film Misery. But it was downhill which every good forest serial killer knows is a hiker’s soft spot so we merrily followed along.

Arriving at the base of the hill, Honey’s true nature was revealed and she took off on a bloodthirsty tear for a pond full of ducks leaping bodily into the water on the attack.  Along her run she was terrifying, don’t believe me, well she flushed 4 college students from Prague out of the bushes running for their lives until they realized her blood lust had an avian focus. We were all together again, this greatly reduced our chances of being serial killed.

So as a merry band of Honey’s near victims we happily stumbled toward the city just past the graveyard of Honey’s victims.

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We found actual trail signs and began following them until the diversions startred again.

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It was all too much for one of our band who fell over dead on the grass.  Top Gear rules, a man falls, you leave him behind. It was about then we realized the Aussie was gone. No worries, forward on to Inverness Castle.  With the grief of their lost friend overwhelming them the students from Prague bid me farewell to get ice cream.

Shortly after, I found a park with restrooms and popped in.  Upon walking out, the Aussie was waiting for me. Non-fazed we continued walking to our next diversion. I knew we were in full Twilight Zone mode when we passed Horney’s Pleasure Faire setting up on the park.

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The GPS said cross the bridge, but the men in vests and little yellow hats refused us access, they said, “you must use the diversion.”

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Now I knew why the Aussie was here, it was to usher me along before the long train of profanities exploding from my mouth, I’d had one diversion too many today.

We found another bridge and climbed one final hill to the end marker for the trail.

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At that point, the Aussie revealed she had only been hiking the trail under the command of a stuffed dog, took it out of her pack and promptly photographed it at the end marker. I then quickly concluded my adventure by heading for my accommodations in the exact wrong direction. Have a happy day my friends. – Rev Kane

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Day 5 Great Glen Way – Drumnodrochit to Inverness (straight story)

Day 5 Great Glen Way – Drumnodrochit to Inverness (the straight story)

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The long walk home.

So I’ll be writing two versions of my 5th day on the Great Glen. The first will be the fairly standard trip report of the walk with some pictures. That’s the one you’re reading now. The second will be a slightly embellished more literary version about getting lost on a mountain in Scotland on the back end of my hike, and being “rescued” by a dog named Honey. Comparing the two accounts should give you some interesting insight into my writer’s mind.

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The day got off to a late start as the BnB didn’t even start breakfast until 8AM. So I was a little worried about making the 6PM checkin time in Inverness,  silly I know but I don’t like to inconvenience people.  The 20 mile section started with the highest climb of the trip. Although steep at points it was mostly a steady long climb over beautiful forest trails. The full climb but plus a second peak took almost two hours.

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The middle section of the hike was reminiscent of the West Highland Way. We we were on top of the mountains walking alternately between cut and growing stands of spruce forest with moors full of heathers in between. Pleasant walking as the sun was out and the midges were not.

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I had decided to try and avoid my standard long day heat rash by only wearing my liner socks, mistake. I did avoid the rash but ended up with a huge heel blister on one foot. Yes, I had in fact remarked the day before about how I rarely get blisters. Totally cursed myself.

It was a pretty day but my energy was waning, my head was as ready to be done as my feet. On a lunch break I once again ran into the lads from Glasgow and we had a nice chat on the side of the road. The last six miles of the trail were a gradual descent into Inverness, well at least it was supposed to be.

We came to a gate that indicated a diversion on the trail, that I promptly missed.  But I knew something was up and waited for the person just behind me on the trail to catch up. When she didn’t I knew I had to backtrack.  Eventually, I would find her, then 4 guys from Prague wondering around with some loose idea of where we should be going. There were no signs or at times official trails.  After some time and losing the boys, we just decided to go downhill.  In the end and finding a dog named Honey, it worked out and we made the final walk to the castle and the finishing sign.

I’ll have more thoughts on the overall experience in another post but it was a happy two weeks in a beautiful place with nice people and I’m glad I came.  Hope you are having a happy day as well my friends. – Rev Kane

 

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Day 4 Great Glen Way – Invermorsten to Drumnodrochit

Day 4 Great Glen Way – Invermorsten to Drumnodrochit

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A peaceful and mellow day on the trail. Started with a massive thousand foot climb, one of two for the day. The first one does the altitude in an a little over a mile so it’s steep.  I downed a Coke pre-climb to give me a boost, nice view on top.

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Over the next 6 miles of quiet forest track and old roads I didn’t see a single person. When the low road I was on finally merged with the high road I encountered several couples hiking the other way.

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There was an interesting spot today that for some reason I didn’t think to photograph. A little pottery shop just off the trail at Grotaig. Great little spot with a wonderful owner. I met up with some hikers from Glasgow and we all chatted with the owner over coffees and ginger beer. He even provided some highland hospitality and gave us some complimentary homemade fruit breads.  What was meant to be a 5 minute cold drink stop turned into a really pleasant half- hour rest.

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Heading out I soon caught up with another hiker I’d met the first day. We chatted over the last three miles down to today’s finish.

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Another day of great weather along Loch Ness, 20 miles tomorrow to the finish line. – Rev Kane

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Day 3 Great Glen Way – Laggan to Invermorsten

Day 3 Great Glen Way – Laggan to Invermorsten

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First view of Loch Ness

A long day today, 18 5 miles from Laggan to Invermorsten. After a great stay at the Forest Lodge BnB I set out at 8AM and pushed the pace hoping to make my hotel by 5PM. I did far better reaching Invermorsten by 3:30 a very fast day for me.

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Loch Oich

It was a hard day, not so much because of the miles but because of two muscles I’ve tweaked. One in my left shoulder and one on my back.  The back muscle causes me to bend over and stretch it every 15 minutes or so on flat ground, less often when I’m climbing or descending.  The shoulder at times knots up and I need to stop and work it. The injuries are more annoyance that debilitating but they wear you down.

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Best weather of the trip today, started out sprinkling rain which transitioned to clouds and eventually full on Scottish sunshine.

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I made my way today along Oich Loch, the Caledonian Canal Way and finally along the slopes of Loch Ness which will be my companion the rest of the way.

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Tomorrow I head for Drumnodrochit, home of not one but two Loch Ness Monster museums.  If both my back is bothering and we get rain on the last day I may spend the day  walking the museums and taking the bus to Inverness.  Lot’s of miles left in Spain but we’ll see how it goes. – Rev Kane

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Day 2 Great Glen Way – Garlochy to Laggan

Day 2 Great Glen Way – Garlochy to Laggan

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Short 10 mile day from Garlochy to Laggan. A cloudy and nice day spent along the shores of Loch Lochy. My favorite named loch because in American it would translate to Lake Lakey.

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I had plenty of time to make my 3 PM checkin so today was very much about the smiles not the miles.  The rain held off the entire walk as I seemed to be strolling in the bright spot between rain bands of a really slow moving storm.  At times when I had views up the loch I could see rain. At times the same down the loch and a couple of times was walking on wet trail. So I was in a fortunate spot.

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The trail mostly wound through conifer forest next to the loch occasionally going through little patches of resort cabins. Lots and lots of little waterfalls today.

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At one point I realized I was ahead of schedule and a short while later I fortuitously encountered a bench.  So I pulled up and laid down for a little 15 minute nap. Absolutely lovely way to spend a bit of an afternoon napping in the sun with the sounds of the loch.

Colin Fletcher has a quote that often is on my mind while hiking. “First you examine your surroundings, then you examine your gear and then you examine yourself.  Could really feel this pattern play out throughout today’s hike.  All in all a very pleasant day of walking. Big day tomorrow, 18 miles to Invermorsten. – Rev Kane

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Day 1 Great Glen Way – Fort William to Garlochy

Day 1 Great Glen Way – Fort William to Garlochy

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The day after a rest day is sometimes tough, it’s a mental thing.  So when the day started out as cold, windy and rainy it was even tougher.  I dawdled after breakfast, a lot, delayed some more and finally headed out in the rain.

The trail is a bit confusing coming out of Fort William and the rain blowing directly in my face didn’t help my mood.  Hell I even had to dodge a boat on the trail.

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There was also a highland bull.

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Then, with my head down, i quickly took note of a waymark but missed the arrow, went off path and got lost. Stopped in a store to get directions and although it worked out, the woman thought I was an idiot and actually yelled at me. My mood was not good.

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I found my way back to Neptune’s Staircase, the loch ladder on the canal, and got underway again.  Not the most exciting hiking on the canal path but it was peaceful.  I got into a rhythm and the rain abated.

The final kick of the day was that the tour company screwed up and a transfer from the trail to where I’m staying cost me 50 pounds.  Waaay cheaper than a taxi and I just wasn’t up for walking another 4 miles at the end of the day.

But my friends, perspective is important, as I said yesterday, a bad day on the trail is still better than a good day in the office.  I got a Magnum White ice cream bar, a little dinner and worked out a ride to the trail in the morning. So it’s all worked and looking forward to a happy day tomorrow,  no adventure ever goes off without a hitch. – Rev Kane

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Zero (rest day) in Fort William, Scotland, UK

Zero (rest day) in Fort William, Scotland, UK

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So taking a zero day today between the West Highland and Great Glen Ways. I head out in the morning, a relatively flat 10 mile hike.

So today I relaxed, ate, relaxed, did some errands, ate, relaxed, ate and dodged rain showers.

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Fort William is sort of an outdoor jumping off point for the highlands. Had the best chicken vindaloo I’ve ever had, got my shopping done and gave my legs a break.

Ran into some of the hikers I spent time with on the trail.  I spent the most time with couples from Tennessee, Denmark and London. A couple of cool girls living in England, one from Lithuania and the other “Rocket” from Poland. That girl seriously flies up hill.

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Nice to have a rest day today I can’t deny, but back to smiles and miles in the morning. Because a bad day on a trail is still almost always better than a good day at work. Have a happy day my friends. – Rev Kane

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Day 7 (final day) West Highland Way – Kinlochleven to Fort Williams

Day 7 (final day) West Highland Way – Kinlochleven to Fort Williams

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This would be one of those weather days you just can’t bring yourself to trust.  Windy, chilly, some minor rain early that let up. All day it seemed on the edge of rain but it never came. I didn’t buy into it though til the last downhill four mile run.

Right out of the gate we had to climb out of the valley and it was a long climb. My legs were a bit dead so the climb was really slow.  It’s been a long week.

The profile was essentially a big climb, a relatively flat run then two climbs that dipped back down between, and then a final downhill run in the last four miles.

One cool thing that happened was that apparently it was mating day for a species of black, what I believe to be damselflies. There were hoards of them everywhere when I stopped for lunch. Little sex crazed monsters were so distracted they kept flying into my head.

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The weary hiker statue in Fort William

The last day of a long week made the day feel longer than it seemed. The last climb was flat out disheartening.  But on the flipside I met an environmental grad student and had a great chat that made the last few miles fly by.

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The walk through town to the final end monument took forever. But it allowed reflection on a really good week. Hiking here in Scotland is beautiful and i got lucky with both weather and the midges so far. Tomorrow I start the Great Glen Way, 5 more days in the highlands. Hope you’re having a happy day my friends. – Rev Kane

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Day 6 West Highland Way – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

Day 6 West Highland Way – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

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A “short” run on this day, only 8.5 miles but of course it involved both the highest climb and point on the trail, the Devil’s staircase.

The morning started with a lot of wind which made us all happy because it meant no midges.  It also was a pretty good indicator that we’d get rained on and before the climb started it was coming down pretty good.  It meant a long climb in the rain but although the climb was challenging it was a good climb.

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Overall because of the weather, the hike wasn’t all that exciting but the weather improved steadily and the midges never appeared.

One thing is that trail community has finally developed over the hike and we all have our little bubble of people we’re pacing with and then see again at dinner in town.  It’s my favorite part of long distance hiking.

The descent into Kinlochleven was very steep and long, but contrary to my kid I didn’t find it terribly ugly of a town. The place I stayed and ate, the Highland Getaway Inn was my favorite so far. The Glencoe chicken I had for dinner was fantastic.

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A yard in Kinlochleven

Tomorrow is the final the final push to Fort William. – Rev Kane

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