Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: One Week, My Knees, VT & MA

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: One Week, My Knees, VT & MA

LT sign fixI went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. ~ Henry David Thoreau

So, for those of you who have not been following along let me summarize my life since March 7th.  On that date I started a thru-hike attempt on the Appalachian Trail from Springer Mountain, GA to Mount Katahdin, ME.  A little 2189 miles stroll up America’s East Coast mountain chains.

land 25Georgia was amazingly hard, steep hills full of mud and rocks and terribly hard descents and as a poor descender I spent a lot of time swearing at rocks and of course falling.  I almost quit on the second week, but I didn’t.  Georgia gave way to North Carolina and long mountain ascents and much better trails, although bigger climbs I dug North Carolina’s trails.  We then entered and exited the Tennessee mountains numerous times as we walked the TN/NC border.  We walking through the Smoky Mountains with their beautiful views, bears and many regulations as only a federally run park can muster.  We then entered the big state, Virginia, with over 500 miles of the Appalachian Trail and easier trails, or at least we believed from the profile maps.

I don’t have great knees, a genetic gift from my father’s side of the family and although I played sports through high school and a bit in college I had never seriously hurt them.  However, they bothered me from time to time and I was concerned on this trip how the extra weight and walking would impact them.  I found out early that if I pushed to hard my knees became sore, but a brief rest would quickly set them right.  Eventually I started wearing small compression braces to help me out.

Overmountain Shelter

Over Mountain Shelter

It was on the humps coming out of Over Mountain Shelter in a 45 mile an hour rain storm that I hurt my left knee.  The wind blew my foot slightly to the side and it caused me to awkwardly step off of the side of a grass tuft.  I spun off and went down twisting my knee in the process.  Of course in a 45 mph rain storm, while soaked, in the open and with the thermometer reading in the 40’s, laying on the ground worrying about your knee is not an option unless you’d like to add hypothermia to your list of issues.  So I got up and “walked it off.”  I actually count myself lucky, another hiker did almost the identical thing that day on the same ground, the difference was that his injury took him off the trail immediately and to the surgeon shortly thereafter.  After a two day rest I moved forward to Virginia.

The trails leading to Damascus are some of the nicest flattest trails I’ve encountered and I made good time getting to Damascus.  However my left knee was incredibly stiff and so I took a full week there hoping to get my knee back to a near normal state.  It seemed to work, I walked from Damascus to Marion, VA and got off the trail for a side trip to play tourist in Washington, DC.  Concerned I didn’t have 2100 miles in my knee I bounced ahead 300 miles north of Marion and started the Shenandoah National Park (SNP).  After walking through the SNP I headed for Harpers Ferry, WV along the trail which included a section of the trail known as the “Roller Coaster.”  The “Roller Coaster” is 13.5 miles of densely packed ascents and descents, these are not big hills but 300 to 400 foot ascents and descents one right after another.  We did 9 miles the first day and the final 4.5 plus some additional miles the next day leaving us with 7 miles to go to Harpers Ferry.

images (1)We finished the first day at the Bear’s Den Hostel and my knee felt fine, I was relieved cruised through the next day feeling great.  However, waking up the morning before the final walk into Harpers Ferry, my knee felt like nothing inside was connected and side to side movement caused me shooting pains.  Luckily, if I kept my knee from moving side to side I could go up or downhill without much discomfort.  So I pushed into Harpers Ferry and pulled the plug for a time on the my hike.

I then spent two weeks rehabbing my knees in the Northeast, first laying at the beach for a week, (hey I’m on vacation 🙂 ).  Then doing some light walking back where my family lives in upstate New York.  I had planned to hike a portion of the trail in Southern Vermont  with a good friend from college the week of June 13th and this now turned into a test hike with heavy consequences.  If the week went well I could continue my thru-hike attempt, if it went just ok, then I’d likely pick some sections after a rest and retire the attempt.  Worse case scenario if the hike went poorly my Appalachian Trail Days were likely over.

Here’s a photo of Bryan and I, and my mother’s finger, as we set off from Bennington, VT on Saturday, June 13th.

self 0

The plan was to do a fairly light week, Bennington, VT to Lee, MA over 8 days, only a little over 70 miles  but with some good and variable terrain it would be a good way to test my knee, let my friend experience a little bit of what thru-hiking the AT is like, and give us a week of time to spend together.  So I nervously set out to find out what VT, MA and my knees had in store for me.  I’ll continue this post tomorrow, have a happy day my friends. ~ Rev Kane

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Happy Hike Naked Day!!!

Happy Hike Naked Day!!!

happiness, hike naked

Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose. You are already naked. There is no reason not to follow your heart. ~ Steve Jobs

I first found out about Hike Naked Day from a great piece, 10 Appalachian Trail Traditions.  I’m writing this piece in February a couple of weeks before hitting the trail, so hopefully as you read this I’m enjoying a fabulously naked day of hiking somewhere in Pennsylvania or who knows where.  Here are a couple of interesting pieces on the concept, have a read and a happy day my friends ~ Rev Kane

Hike Naked Day 2014 packs some shocks over the weekend

Day 58: Hike Naked til your sunburnt day on the PCT

Caution: Naked Hiking Day, June 21st

happiness, smiley

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Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: Changes

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: Changes

1Tonight I want to address something I talked about sometime ago here on this blog.  People continually ask me why attempt a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail?  The answer I have settled on is that, hiking the Appalachian Trail is an adventure and adventure leads to transformation and I want to lead a transformational life.  That of course means embracing change, something I am really weird about because I’m one of the few of us who actually likes change.  I think it comes from getting bored easily.

However, that does not mean that change doesn’t scare the hell out of me like it does everyone else.  What it does mean is that I’m willing to push through the fear and take the leap.  For me, the only really hard part is the first step, once I’ve started my fear is gone.  So what really holds most of us back is not our circumstances but the doubts and fears within our own head.  I’m here to say you can take that first step.

1The mountains are calling and I must go ~ John Muir

One of the changes I have experienced after my first couple of months on the trail really didn’t become apparent to me until recently.  I have developed a deep affection for the mountains.  I’ve always been an outdoorsman, my whole life I have hiked, hunted, photographed and fished, being in the woods in the fall has always been a precious thing to me.  But being off the trail right now I actually find myself longing to be back out there it has become home.  The count is five days right now until I go home again.  The thought hit me hard today as I was driving in the Hudson Valley and caught my self eying and analyzing the slope and difficulty of the ridge lines in the Catskill Mountains.

I’ve said on several occasions while on the trail that I didn’t know if the experience would lead me to spending more time in the woods, or if I’d never go hiking again.  I can say for a fact it will be the former.

land 31First you examine your surroundings, then you examine your gear, then you examine yourself ~ Colin Fletcher

This quote by Colin Fletcher is perhaps my favorite quote about hiking.  It’s also one of the most accurate.  You go through phases on a long hike.  First there is the amazement of your surroundings, the forest, the flowers, the views, the difficulty or ease of the topography.  Then when the initial wonderment wears off you start analyzing how well your gear is functioning, how much weight can I drop out of my pack, why the hell did I bring three lighters?

Finally, when you can no longer avoid it, particularly when the trail is difficult and you have to be focused and mindful of your steps, you get into your own head.  Humans have two super powers in my opinion, the abilities to rationalize and deny anything.  We use these skills to avoid thinking about life’s bigger questions, however after some time in the woods, you can no longer escape yourself.  You come face to face with all of the questions you avoid on a daily basis.  Some are universal, some incredibly unique and personal.  The process is less about “finding” yourself and more about revealing the you that has been lying underneath layers of societal and personal bullshit.

I’m fortunate, I’ve been hacking away at those layers for some time, so getting to me hasn’t been that hard.  The hard part is now that I’m there what the hell do I do.  I think my plan is in tact, it’s time to take some risks and try and live the life I envision instead of the one that was safest and made the most sense.  At 50, perhaps I’m getting here really late, perhaps I’m early to the party, we’ll see.

Bliss Dancing at dawn

Bliss Dancing at dawn

Never too old, never too bad, never too late, never too sick to start from scratch once again ~ Bikram Choudhury

So, as I contemplate my AT experience coming to an end, and that could come as early as June 20th or as late as September or October, it’s time to start planning.  Stay tuned my friends as I unfold the details and keep moving forward I will bring you along.

sunris flwr fixThere is a message in this for you as well my friends, one that I am going to start repeating often, and one that I hope you will take to heart.  Yes you can!  Not an original message, it’s a little tweak on Cesar Chavez’s Si se puede, which was then translated and used by the Obama campaign in the form you most likely know it by, yes we can.  But this is a personal message so it’s yes you can, and you can.  I know you can my friends, whatever it is and when you do, you will have many more happy days ~ Rev Kane

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Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: My Damn Knees

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: My Damn Knees

2So I’m starting out this post with a message myself and to the rest of the hikers out there doing miles on the Appalachian Trail.  We’re too hard on ourselves, I address this in an earlier post around folks who quit the trail, but it needs to be addressed to those of us still hiking as well.  A moment of Duh, please.  Hiking the Appalachian Trail is hard!

Those of you not hiking get that, those of us actually doing it sometimes need to be reminded of just how hard it is and how hard what we are doing is.  The best reminders come from folks, normal, fit people who look at you and go, no way, no way in hell I could ever do that.  The mountains in Georgia are some of the most brutal I’ve ever hiked due to the grade, the quality of the trails and the weather conditions when we hiked through them in March.  I know what I’m talking about, I’ve hiked in the high passes of the Himalayas, sections of the PCT, Bryce, Zion, and I tell you, Georgia is really gnarly.  Add in being new thru-hikers, carrying too much weight and you have one hell of a challenge.

Yet, we chastised ourselves for going too slow and not doing enough miles while people younger, fitter, stronger and better hikers dropped out around us left and right.  We climbed the highest point on the trail in the Great Smoky mountains at over 6000 feet.  We spent weeks in NC and TN walking and sleeping over 5000 feet in sunshine, fog, rain and even snow.

We all fell, we all hurt our bodies and bruised our pride.  We continued to nag ourselves about our lack of speed and stamina and every day we saw fewer and fewer folks on the trail.  Most of us have toes and portions of our feet that are destroyed, this includes gorgeous calluses, lost toe-nails, broken toes, and parts of our feet and toes that no longer have feeling and I wonder if they ever will again.

I've seen much worse that this on other hikers.  It's the toe underneath not the nail that's black.  Eventually the tip of my toe shriveled up and fell off.

I’ve seen much worse that this on other hikers. It’s the toe underneath not the nail that’s black. Eventually the tip of my toe shriveled up and fell off.

Some of my early and lovely calluses

Some of my early and lovely calluses

We’ve suffered rashes, sprains and strains.  We’ve trashed gear, broken trekking poles, ripped up backpacks, worn out pairs of shoes, don’t even get me started on what we’ve done to our socks, but here’s a picture of what my socks did to me.

20150427_203408The point is though we’re doing it, even if you did two days out here, you flipped your life upside down and jumped with both feet into the deep end of adventure.  We should be proud of ourselves, we should go easier on ourselves.  It’s hard at times though, when you run into your third triple crown (AT, CDT, PCT) hiker of the day, when someone enters camp after an easy 25 mile day and you just crawled through 15 miles.  On the trail we forget we’re with the hiking elite, the upper 1% of folks who ever strap on a backpack.  The comparisons to these folks feed our self-abuse.  So go easy on yourself my fellow brothers and sisters, we’re awesome!!!

land 31I’m trying to hold onto this message today, it’s been a hard day my friends.  After resting my knee for several days and taking light walks on the beach, yes the beach.  I took a short walk with just a compression brace on my bad knee, a little test, and, well, it failed.  It hurts today and that really sucks and has tanked my mood.

My rehab location on Cape Cod for the last 5 days.

My rehab location on Cape Cod for the last 5 days.

My knee is serviceable, I’ve purchased a heavier brace for it and I have a week to be ready to do a week long hike on the AT in Southern VT with one of my best friends.  That will be the real test, if that goes well we rock and roll.  If it does ok, we keep going, if it sucks, well then I have to seriously consider coming off the trail before I do any kind of permanent damage.  The good news is that I’ve had pain, some weakness but no debilitating pain and most importantly no swelling at all.  So likely I’m dealing with a combination of tendinitis, cartilage loss, arthritis and just old-fatman-itis.

So far I’ve done nearly 700 miles on the trail.  A friend the other night told me how proud I should be of what I’ve done and I am.  For a 50 year old fat man to jump out and do 700 miles on America’s premier hiking trail, I should be and am proud of what I’ve accomplished, but I want more. I started totally afraid my back wouldn’t handle the weight, that I wasn’t experienced enough, that my knees would fail.  The reality is that my knees have done well, were it not for my injury on the “humps” heading into Roan, TN, I would be in great shape right now and I’ve been fortunate enough to have been walking some of the most beautiful mountains on earth.

The summit of Mt. Unaka

The summit of Mt. Unaka

I am determined friends, I will absolutely do over 800 miles and am focused on covering at least 1000 miles if I have to slack pack the last couple of hundred miles to get there.  I will do more miles than Bill Bryson did!  So keep your fingers crossed, send me all the prayers and positive hippy vibes you can muster.  Even after spending five days in a beautiful room on the beach at Cape Cod I’m craving life on the trail, you can’t understand unless you’ve done it, how much trail life infects your very being, just another commonality it shares with Burning Man, but more about that in another post.

Up in the Smokies

Up in the Smokies

Have a happy day my friends ~ Rev Kane

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Happy News – June 5, 2015

Happy News – June 5, 2015

happy news, happiness

Senior Class Decision Brings Principal to Tears

1

Over 5000 pets adopted in weekend event

1

Fifth Graders Bond Together to Protect Fellow Student Being Bullied

1

Former Homeless Teen Becomes Class Valedictorian

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Flora and Fauna Guide

Flora and Fauna Guide

This page just passed my way and I thought it was interesting, a page that shows some common tracks, plants, etc…worth a look if you’re going to be doing some hiking, enjoy ~ Rev Kane

Flora and Fauna Infographic site

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Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: Selfie Progression

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: Selfie Progression

Michael Kane and John Stewart head for the AT

Michael Kane and John Stewart head for the AT

So tonight I thought I would put together a progression of the selfies I’ve taken on the trail so far.  So here they are from when I started to my latest shot at Bear Den Hostel.  Perhaps there are changes I don’t see but I think I still look the same as when I started, my feet don’t but I think my face does, but I let you be the judges. ~ Rev Kane

20150305_170020

My first night camping on the AT

Backtrack on the Rev on one of the early nights on the trail

Backtrack on the Rev on one of the early nights on the trail

First rough night on the AT

First rough night on the AT

20150323_200208

The NC/GA Border

The NC/GA Border

Backtrack, Shaggy Hobo and Rev Kane

Backtrack, Shaggy Hobo and Rev Kane

Me and the Mad Hatter

Me and the Mad Hatter

Me and Tough Cookie (she's back on the trail after appendicitis surgery 6 weeks ago)

Me and Tough Cookie (she’s back on the trail after appendicitis surgery 6 weeks ago)

Me and Cliffhanger

Me and Cliffhanger

My air mattress savior

My air mattress savior

Up in the Smokies

Up in the Smokies

Ramble on Rose, a truly beautiful person

Ramble on Rose, a truly beautiful person

The AARP gang with our host Lumpy on the left at Standing Bear

The AARP gang with our host Lumpy on the left at Standing Bear

Leap Frog, we met in the privy at Standing Bear Farm.  Really awesome hiker.

Leap Frog, we met in the privy at Standing Bear Farm. Really awesome hiker.

At Hemlock Hollow

At Hemlock Hollow

Me and the scouts at Overmountain Shelter

Me and the scouts at Overmountain Shelter

The TN/VA border

The TN/VA border

Me and Mighty Mouse

Me and Mighty Mouse in Damascus

Me and Yukon Cornelius

Me and Yukon Cornelius

Rev  with Hercules aka Vortex

Rev with Hercules aka Vortex

Rev Kane with fellow hiker and vet Mau.

Rev Kane with fellow hiker and vet Mau.

Two beautiful section hikers I met in the SNP

Two beautiful section hikers I met in the SNP

The youngest hiker, Olivia and her mom. She's done 300 miles on the AT and she can't even walk yet.

The youngest hiker, Olivia and her mom. She’s done 300 miles on the AT and she can’t even walk yet.

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Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: The Simple Life

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: The Simple Life

Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah National Park

One of the nicest things about the trail reveals itself the most when you’re no longer out there.  It is the beautiful simplicity that exists while hiking the Appalachian Trail.  Life on the trail is simple, you get up, you hike, you camp, repeat.  Sure, there are a thousand details within each of those steps.  Hiking is an activity that is incredibly mindful, on the trail you have to focus on nearly every step.  Rarely, but it happens, do you get trail where you don’t have to focus on your steps.  It seems that most days on the trail, the minute you stop focusing on your feet you catch a root or a rock and trip, sometimes fall.  We all fall on the trail it’s just part of the gig.

Awesome, Backtrack, Rev Kan, and the Kingfisher

Awesome, Backtrack, Rev Kan, and the Kingfisher

The other thing about the trail is that your relationships are transitory and simple.  Most of us came out on to the trail alone and as such there are no obligations.  Sure from time to time we form groups but these really are loose affiliations and when the pace or the goals of the group no longer fit we just move on.  Also, a lot of people (70% or more) who start the trail quit, so a lot of people that we started with are no longer on the trail.  Yet, I feel far lonelier off the trail than I do when I’m out there.  I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that once you start to simplify your life you start to connect and focus on the necessary.  This definitely extends to the connection to nature we feel when we’re on the trail and to more significant connections with the people we are around.

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Photo by Shaggy Hobo

Finally, the simplicity extends to our senses as well, particularly to noise.  The forest is so much quieter than the default world.  The best way I can describe this is that at night when I retire to my hammock I usually listen to music for a time.  On the trail I have my mp3 on the lowest volume level, but once back in town and on a train for instance, I have to have the volume on nearly the highest volume level.  That light ringing in your ear you hear at the end of the day when everything is quiet, well, I no longer have that after a couple of months on the trail.

FB_IMG_1427993706934We have talked many times on the blog before about the benefits of simplifying our lives, being on the trail has absolutely done that, and provided many happy days my friends ~ Rev Kane

Related Pieces

Happiness, the Minimalist Mind and Hiking the Appalachian Trail

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: Status Update

Appalachian Trail (AT) Happiness: For Our Veterans

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AT Happiness: Culture Shock!!!

AT Happiness: Culture Shock!!!

So I have jumped off the trail earlier than I had expected to in order to surprise some of my family and visit others before they move out of the Northeast.  I got off of the train in Harpers Ferry after reaching the 1023 mile mark on the trail. Given what I’ve skipped this means I’ve walked a little over 650 miles since leaving Springer Mountain in Georgia on June 7th.

20150514_111009One of the things I’ve been noticing about being at the trail is the fact that life is so much slower on the trail.  The days are longer, and things are much quieter than in the default world.  One real sign of this is that at night in camp listening to my mp3 I have the volume almost all of the way down.  While listening to my mp3 on the train I had the volume almost maxed out.

So as such, you get used to fewer people, less noise and a general slower pace of life.  This was never as apparent as it was this last Thursday.  I took the train from Harpers Ferry after getting off the trail.  Since the train was over three hours late, apparently normal for this train, my connection at Union Station in DC was about 15 minutes which meant going from one train straight to the next.  So essentially I went from the forest, through the museum like calm of Harpers Ferry to pop up at Penn Station, in front of Madison Square Garden, a half an hour before the Rangers were playing the Lightning in Game 7 of their series.  WOW! A new definition of culture shock for me.

1Things are quieter as I rehab my knee this week on Cape Cod, but honestly I’m looking forward to getting back to the serenity of the trail and many happy hiking days my friends ~ Rev Kane

cape

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AT Happiness: The Shenandoah

AT Happiness: The Shenandoah

Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah National Park

After my trail diversion to visit Washington, DC I returned to the trail at Rockfish Gap near Waynesboro, VA. This is the southern entrance point to the Shenandoah National Park (SNP).

I had heard a few things from other hikers about the SNP, you can carry very little food, it’s flat and there are a lot of bears.

Modeling the bear pole

Modeling the bear pole

Coming in on the southern end of the park I had my doubts about the food issue. It wasn’t til a few days in before we started regularly passing through the camp stores, waysides and lodges in the park.  In fact the first camp store we came to was closed, luckily the wayside was open.

It was great to be able to get a couple of hot dogs, fries, 2 cokes and a milkshake only a couple of miles off the trail. As well as to grab a Gatorade and sandwich fixings for dinner.

We were able to do this nearly every day through the north end of the park. It provided a nice change of pace from the normal snacks and camp food we carry.

Nothing on the Appalachian Trail is easy or flat, at least not so far. Without question though some parts are flatter and easier by comparison. The SNP falls into this description.  There were climbs and descents but nowhere near the level that we’d previously experienced.  Also the trails in the SNP were very well marked and maintained.

Lions and tigers and bears oh my!!!! Ok we didn’t encounter any lions or tigers. However in camp each night the conversation wasn’t did anyone see a bear, it was, how many, how big and how close.

Web photo

Web photo

I saw my first AT bear in the SNP and heard some cubs in the brush followed by a momma bear grunting and barking at me from an uncomfortably close distance.  I would argue that any bear you can hear but not see is too damn close. I hustled along the trail til she stopped a minite later.

The SNP was pretty, we had some great views and met a lot of section hikers. New faces are always fun in camp.

Rev Kane with fellow hiker and vet Mau.

Rev Kane with fellow hiker and vet Mau.

Rev with Hercules aka Vortex

Rev with Hercules aka Vortex

Two beautiful section hikers I met in the SNP

Two beautiful section hikers I met in the SNP

I would recommend the SNP section to anyone wanting a taste of thru-hiking life on the AT. I’d also recommend doing it pre-Memorial Day or post Labor Day when the weather is cooler.

All in all the SNP provided me with many happy days my friends, and hey, it’s summer, so do some hiking! It will make you happier. – Rev Kane

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